中國最後一個原始部落
中国最后一个原始部落 2015-02-04 古竹村GUZHUCUN关注【古竹村】,和村长做朋友吧!
http://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/KjR6NvskAAqEMFcIWweDibYibecB5UrZCib4hSSGcicB7ILmNicYsCibsFg7QtIGtsORsOnHyqyNaQt919fiaaSzjPgrg/0
遇见未知的世界
沧源地处祖国西南边陲,位于云南省临沧市,是著名的佤乡。这里神奇、美丽、富饶,有着我从未体验的自然原生态,以及热情好客的少数民族。倘若不是亲身前往,很难想象在国境之内,竟然还有着这么一个独特的地方:地理位置偏僻,让它依旧保持着神秘的历史风貌;中缅漫长的国境线,存在着让人惊叹和意想不到的民俗遗存;璞玉般的“司岗里”佤族文化在此千载传承。
我对于自然景色非常着迷,听说沧源冬春季,会有非常壮观的云雾海,所以特地选择了冬季前往沧源看云雾。沧源地区的森林覆盖率非常高,加之地形因素影响,冬春季常会在坝子、谷底上空形成逆温层,低海拔河谷的暖气与高海拔沿山下滑的冷空气相遇,让逆温层以下形成了厚厚的云海,早上阳光照射后,气温升高,云海急剧翻滚、奔涌,会上演变幻莫测的云山雾海景观。11月和12月在沧源,几乎每天早上雾海都如约而至。从县城驱车半个小时,就可以到达山顶高处俯视山谷,早晨的阳光照耀出温暖祥和的无际云霭,当云海中开始透浮现出沧源县城的时候,真有种海市蜃楼的错觉。当你站在山顶,看着云海在你脚下翻腾,村镇、道路和山峰在云雾中若隐若现,宛如仙境。当你看烦了城市的雾霾,再来看这里神奇的云雾海,心情感受截然不同。
http://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/KjR6NvskAAqEMFcIWweDibYibecB5UrZCibr9DVx8iatpW83FgJ3vJpWmwHzaUdvVInen2BjOKCY27c8ibxHfUZ5tug/0
http://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/KjR6NvskAAqEMFcIWweDibYibecB5UrZCibWt1Zkqfdw7YzILn6gdvRWvPJf4F6uAmGyBUZI8O48XE9DeXdaaxmGA/0
在沧源群山之中,尚有很多没有开发过的原始森林,我们一行人来到了距离县城最近的原始丛林山谷---农瓦山谷。走进森林后,可见到硕大的董棕树,以及大量从高大树木树冠上垂下来藤蔓,沿着原始山谷小溪前进,沿途地形起伏,不时需攀扶树木和藤蔓前行,沿途无人迹,只有野趣的自然生态美景。听说在沧源的南滚河国家自然保护区里,还栖息有野象和大量珍稀动植物,心生向往。
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佤族的图腾是牛,从进入村寨开始,就可以在木桩上、神树上、重要的建筑墙上,看到挂着的硕大牛头骨。佤族的传统建筑是干栏式的,下部用来饲养牲畜和堆放杂物,上面才是居住的茅草屋,屋顶上会开有天窗。每当清晨和傍晚,整个村寨就会被袅袅炊烟所笼罩,非常原生态的自然生活场景。我有幸在村寨里住了一宿,深切体会了佤族村寨中的清晨和傍晚,美丽炊烟和那树影婆娑的奇幻光影。
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翁丁大寨
沧源佤文化的精华所在---“翁丁大寨”,距离沧源县城30多公里,50分钟车程可到,翁丁是云南省著名非物质文化遗产传统文化保护区。佤族是一个山地民族,佤族在古语当中的意思为“住在山上的人”,佤族的村寨多借山势而建。翁丁大寨上部有一片神林,神林里供奉的是“梅依吉”神,寨子下部有鬼林,鬼林紧靠墓地,还保留有原始的人头桩遗迹。翁丁整个村寨保护的非常完好,具有佤族村寨的各种传统元素,如寨门、寨桩、撒拉房、打歌场、祭祀房、木鼓房、人头桩、牛头桩等,都散发着浓郁的原始部落气息。
http://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/KjR6NvskAAqEMFcIWweDibYibecB5UrZCibSLPccCEGapOPgPib430CNxgxgARO5XibkoI3uPJKCicf1brOXgvreA9cg/0
沧源崖画谷
沧源崖画谷有着距今3500年历史的崖画,崖画谷距离县城只有40多分钟车程。沧源崖画是新石器时代先民的作品,画面反应了原始部落生活场景。据说专家研究后,得出了颜料是用牛血和矿石粉调配的结果。古代先民通过这些生动的崖画图案,将神与天地,以及先民的生活场景刻画出来,有种与先祖的对话感觉,这里的崖画中蕴含着我们无法准确诠释的众多秘密。距离崖画不远,还有天坑和司岗里大溶洞等景点,都是自然界神奇造化的景观。
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司岗里大溶洞
佤族口口相传的“司岗里”创世传说,其中提到人类是从山洞里走出来的,所以对于大型溶洞,佤族有着更加崇敬的信仰。司岗里大溶洞是个Y字型的特大溶洞,洞内主厅非常宏大,目前开发的区域只是溶洞的很小一部分,溶洞底部还有暗河通向更深处。这里的地下溶洞和暗河,基本处于未探查阶段,也许有很多神奇和惊喜就藏在其中。
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待客习俗
佤族人非常好客,如果主人外出或不方便接待外客(有丧事等),会在屋子门上插上绿叶树枝。除了插树枝的房子外,其他的民居建筑外来的客人都可以进入拜访。佤族常会煮茶和奉酒迎接。佤族有喝茶、喝酒前先“滴茶”(滴几滴酒或茶到地上)的习俗,其意是敬神送鬼,对鬼神说:有茶有酒,我不敢先喝,你们喝了我再喝。完全是一种和神鬼交流仪式的生活习俗传承。
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传统民俗
如果运气好,还能看在翁丁看到传统的佤族民俗“拉木鼓”和“打歌”活动。“拉木鼓”是佤族木鼓文化的重要活动之一,在神林里祭祀后,全村寨的居民会拉着木鼓,唱着歌曲,将木鼓从山上拉到村寨的广场上,场景盛大而隆重,给人留下深刻的印象。而“打歌”是围成圆圈边演奏、边跳舞,乐手们吹着民俗乐器,村民们边跳边唱,场景非常有感染力,常常会带动访客共同加入舞蹈之中。
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佤族妇女
这次旅行中,除了翁丁以外,还去了中缅边境东段的嘎多月亮古寨,以及边境西段的芒黑小寨,这些村寨完全未经开发,虽然村寨里有些现代材质建造的房屋,但村寨中民风更为淳朴,也是体会沧源原生态的绝佳地点。佤族妇女有抽烟斗的习俗,她们不管是在劳动中或在空余休闲时,都会拿出烟斗抽上几口,尤其是老年妇女,几乎是烟斗不离身。佤族的妇女非常勤劳,在村寨里时常可以见到晒谷劳作、用头顶背搬运饲料,用传统腰机和纺锤织布与纺线的妇女。
http://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/KjR6NvskAAqEMFcIWweDibYibecB5UrZCibXK1BbWfJGBaCbnkJ5t2jPgK5ZfDRKecteNVxM5zrdFeVP5Diaur7R6A/0
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宗教信仰
靠近缅甸的部分佤族村寨(如芒黑村),部分已经信奉佛教,村寨中有了小型简易缅寺,到缅寺拜访,被寺庙师傅迎坐到屋子中间的火塘边,师傅给我们倒上茶,入口慢慢品茗,淡幽心境。缅寺建筑就地取材,竹篾编的墙孔中透过的条条光线,让火塘中升起翻腾的烟雾具化了,一种恍若时间慢流的感觉。
http://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz/KjR6NvskAAqEMFcIWweDibYibecB5UrZCib18m7KXRMx1c5LzMiaYDGYtLeHvianwcD3bPG89IBcxPocicMFITwCbsIA/0
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沧源给人的感觉是如此奇特,一次回归人心本源的特别之旅,收获良多。
http://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MzA5NTk1MTQzNA==&mid=202708752&idx=2&sn=004064ddcc231f8caef6a3af380287dc&scene=2&from=timeline&isappinstalled=0#rd 犹如仙境,在这样的环境中生活,已经是神仙了。。。。。。
文明地想去那
不過真去到就知道沒文明地不方便了
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